How often to lube a bike chain

The rule

Re-lube a bike chain about every 200 to 300 km (125 to 185 miles) with wet lube, every 100 to 200 km (60 to 125 miles) with dry lube, every 250 km (155 miles) or so with drip wax and every 300 to 500 km (185 to 310 miles) with hot-melt wax. Re-lube after every wet ride, whatever you use. Deep clean the drivetrain roughly every second time you lube.

These are LeCoach rules of thumb, not lube makers' data. Real intervals vary a lot with weather, road dirt, how much lube you apply and how well you wipe it off. The best guide is the chain itself: if it squeaks, looks dry or feels gritty, it needs attention now. This calculator is one of the free LeCoach cycling calculators.

Dry lube washes off easily, so it needs the most frequent top-ups, especially once the roads get wet. Hot-melt wax lasts longest between treatments in dry weather.

The signs: how to check

• Squeaks. A chain that squeaks or chirps is dry. Lube it before the next ride.
• Looks dry or rusty. Orange spots on the rollers or side plates mean water has reached bare metal. Lube it, and check chain wear soon.
• Gritty feel when you backpedal. Turn the cranks backwards slowly and listen. A gritty, crunchy sound means dirt has got into the chain.
• Black gunk on the links. Thick black paste on the chain and jockey wheels is old lube mixed with grit. Clean first, then lube. Adding fresh lube on top only makes a grinding paste.

After every wet ride, dry the chain with a rag and re-lube, even if the interval says it is not due yet.

Estimate yours

• Lube type. Sets the starting point in dry conditions: about 300 km for wet lube, 150 km for dry lube, 250 km for drip wax and 400 km for hot-melt wax.
• Conditions. Mixed weather cuts the interval by 30 %, often wet riding by 60 %. Water washes lube out and carries grit in.
• Kilometres per week. Turns the kilometre interval into how often that is for you, so you can plan it into your week.

The deep-clean interval is about twice the lube interval.

Cleaning versus lubing

Lubing means putting a small amount of lube on a clean chain, one drop per roller, turning the cranks and wiping off the excess from the outside. The lube needs to be inside the rollers, not on the outside plates, where it only collects dirt.

Cleaning means removing old lube and grit: degreaser on the chain, cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels, a brush, a rinse and a thorough dry before you lube again. A clean, well-lubed chain wears more slowly, which helps the cassette too.

Wax works differently. Hot-melt wax goes on a chain stripped completely of factory grease and old lube, then dries hard. Drip wax goes on a clean chain and needs time to dry before you ride. Do not mix wax and oil-based lubes on the same chain. Waxed chains stay clean longer, but once the wax wears away the chain runs dry, so stay on schedule.

Common mistakes

• Too much lube. Excess lube on the outside attracts grit. Always wipe off.
• Lubing a dirty chain. Fresh lube on top of grit makes a grinding paste. Clean first.
• Using degreaser without re-lubing. A freshly cleaned chain is completely dry.
• Spraying lube near the brakes. Lube on disc rotors or rims ruins braking.
• Forgetting indoor kilometres. Trainer rides keep the chain cleaner, but they still use up lube. See indoor vs outdoor cycling training for how the two compare.

When the interval changes

• Autumn and winter shorten every interval. Wet lube usually works better than dry lube in the wet.
• Gravel and MTB rides throw dust and mud at the chain. Check it after every dirty ride.
• Summer on dry roads stretches intervals, especially with wax.
• More kilometres per week means lubing more often, not using more lube at a time.

Good lubing extends chain life. Measure it with when to replace a bike chain, check when to replace your cassette and keep the rest of the bike on track with the bike maintenance schedule. Ask LeCoach anything about your riding, and it answers from your own rides and plan.